'Nine' is so-called because all the action throughout the film takes place over as many days, but hints at the past and the future because it is so well directed by Rob Marshall. The script which was co-adapted by Anthony Minghella has much of his signature stamped over it. 'Nine' tells the story of a famous Italian director as he goes through the motions of artistic mindblock and personal failings, only to find out that the two are so closely intertwined it is a shock he never realised before it was too late.
The film oozes all the 's's you can positively squeeze into a film; sex, style, stamina, and stars. 'Nine' will keep you on your toes throughout the film, push you onto the edge of your seat and then throw you back onto your seat again from the jaw dropping sequences for the full duration of the film -and this isn't even taking into account the stellar cast.
Without the stars, this film would not have been what it is, a massive box office hit and a global success, but of course. Yet Daniel Day Lewis outshines his glittering female leads making 'Nine' exactly what it was on Broadway no doubt ( I haven't seen it) as it is on the big screen, as so many films of its genre have attempted to be, but failed.
Day Lewis's is convincing and brilliant as the womanising film director Guido Contini who is torn between art and love, wife and mistress, and his own capacity to please others around him or to go his own path. Essentially Contini is going through a mid-life crisis, but doing it in style. Day Lewis captures the essence of the tortured, artistic Italian man as Contini, singing and less dancing, more gliding his way through the role, which fits him like a glove. The audience revels in his love affairs, laughs at his quips, and feels the pangs of pain which pull at Contini.
Yet Guido Contini is a difficult character to empathise with. In one of the most moving scenes, Contini walks over to his grief-struck wife Luisa (played by the brilliantly demure Marion Cotillard) as she lies in bed after she discovers his love affair with the sultry Carla (also played by an on-form Penelope Cruz). Instead of consoling his wife, Contini insists blindly that the affair never went on; placing the weight of the emotion in this scene heavily on Luisa. At this point it would be very difficult to feel anything other than sympathy for Luisa due to the overbearing morality of the scene, yet as a member of the audience, I essentially felt pity for Contini. Such are the rare talents of Daniel Day-Lewis who can bring to life the vibrant and insatiable character of Guido Contini, who does everything excessively until he burns out.
It is difficult to have wished for a better cast. Judi Dench is brilliantly sassy as seamstress/costumier Lilli, who shelters Contini from the prying eyes of the paparazzi and producers out for Contini's much anticipated script. Dench has not shied away from her role and dances and sings her way through a musical number which can plaster a smile on any one's face. As for anyone who doubts her talents musically, she positively challenges her younger contemporaries to up their game for the rest of the film.
Luisa Contini is the loving and tortured wife of Guido, who maintains the "perfect Catholic wife" image on the surface of things and hides her pain under her practised smile for Guido's sake. Cotillard, in my opinion, is the best female in the cast, playing out her facade as the happily loved up wife of a famously unfaithful Italian director. Her pain translates well on the big screen, down to the very tips of her fingers in her musical solo, which as I do not want to give much away, is her make or break scene.
To rival Cotillard's brilliance is Penelope Cruz who plays the naive Carla, who can not understand why she will never have the place of Luisa in Contini's heart, even though she is his mistress. Cruz is excellent, in short. She goes from being the strong and sexually in control mistress to the lost and attention-starved woman who cannot understand why Contini's heart will never be hers.
Yet it is not only those Contini chooses to fall in love with him who do. Kate Hudson dazzles as Vogue journalist Stephanie, out for the perfect story and in awe of Contini's style. So much so that she sings a whole number about er, Contini's cinema style. Her role isn't pivotal in any way, but she is great and showcases never before seen talents.
Nicole Kidman glows in a role which was not too much of a stretch for her as she fits easily into the famous starlet gloves of Claudia Jensson. For those who have seen 'Moulin Rouge', expect the same again, to put it one way.
Finally, it must be said that Fergie can really perform throughout a sandy tambourine dance sequence. There is very little screen time for her to showcase her acting skills, but she scores highly for looking sultry, moody and fierce when she is on screen. As a talented singer and dancer, her skills bring to life the stage and props around her, and she eclipses her fellow dancers when she is in action.
'Nine' begins as a mystery, peaks as a dream, and closes with reality. It plays as thoughts would run through one's head, smoothly and with no pauses in between, and this is what makes the film brilliant.
Friday, 1 January 2010
Happy new year and thank you!
I hope no one reading this is feeling worse for wear after last night...
I would just like to wish my followers a brilliant and fantastic 2010, and say a big thank you to each of you for finding time to keep up with my blog. It's been a great year for news, and I'm humbled you have taken time out to read my outlandish thoughts and general drivel.
I hope indeed that you get what you work for this 2010!
Cindy xxx
I would just like to wish my followers a brilliant and fantastic 2010, and say a big thank you to each of you for finding time to keep up with my blog. It's been a great year for news, and I'm humbled you have taken time out to read my outlandish thoughts and general drivel.
I hope indeed that you get what you work for this 2010!
Cindy xxx
Friday, 11 December 2009
New research names and shames the most unethical companies in the UK
Last week, The Good Shopping Guide unveiled their latest research into the UK's most ethical and unethical companies for the eighth edition of their book, producing some shocking revelations.
Sainsbury's are the only supermarket in the UK with correct accreditation from the Ethical Company Organisation, while supermarkets such as Marks and Spencer and Waitrose are at the top of the ethical shopper's list of places to go, scoring highly for their conscious efforts in nuclear power, worker's rights and ethical products. Supermarkets Iceland and Tesco score "badly" for worker's rights and their impact on the environment. Overall however, statistics show that Wal-Mart owned Asda have come bottom in most categories including GM foods, animal welfare, worker's rights, and "political donations".
Tea and coffee are often used as examples of Fairtrade products "making it" into the mainstream, becoming almost symbolic of the Fairtrade movement. While ten out of ten children recognise Ronald MacDonald, only two out of five people recognise the Fairtrade logo. Still, we've come a long way since 2000 when coffee prices slumped to a historic low worldwide. Coffee chains such as Starbucks raked in the profits at the cost of the coffee beans, which plummeted. The evidence was in the stock markets that year.
With chains such as Starbucks' leading the way for corporate gain, the balance between consumers and the developing world could never be tipped; keeping the poor from working their way out of poverty. An estimated 20 million households rely on coffee crops as their income, meaning the knock-on effect on coffee farmers was drastic, many of the farmers had to sell livestock and pull children out of school just to get by.
Now, after incessant campaigning by charities such as Oxfam, Starbucks carries the Fairtrade logo and other chains such as Costa and (even MacDonald's ) proudly display their Rainforest Alliance logo on their recycled, cardboard take away cups.
Of course as Britons, we must mention tea. Over 80 percent of us drink it, and we love it. But how many of us can say we know our Tetley's from our Betty's? According to The Good Shopping Guide, Nescafe, PG Tips and Twinings rate the worst for the environment and animal welfare. Twining's is even "bottom rated" for its stance on genetically modified foods. The companies which come recommended and at the top for everything from public record criticisms, to fair trade and armaments are Yorkshire Tea (84 percent), CafeDirect (88), and Clipper (also 88 percent).
While the evidence goes to show that many of the multi-national corporations are finally taking a stance on their carbon footprint, human rights and ethically sourced products, it raises a very serious question - to save the planet, is it better to buy a pack of fairly traded coffee beans from overseas which enables a farmer to work their way out of poverty but results in more packaging and arrives by aircraft, emitting more CO2 into the atmosphere?
The answer is, there is no simple answer. As a consumer, it is most important to make that decision yourself, and stick with companies who's ethical stance is the same as, or reflects, yours. A stranger said to me today, "I save on plastic bags, and that's my bit done for the planet. After all, the way I see it is, I've barely contributed to global warning!" Then she sauntered off.
If we all thought like this, who's left to make a difference?
'The Good Shopping Guide' is available to buy now.
Sainsbury's are the only supermarket in the UK with correct accreditation from the Ethical Company Organisation, while supermarkets such as Marks and Spencer and Waitrose are at the top of the ethical shopper's list of places to go, scoring highly for their conscious efforts in nuclear power, worker's rights and ethical products. Supermarkets Iceland and Tesco score "badly" for worker's rights and their impact on the environment. Overall however, statistics show that Wal-Mart owned Asda have come bottom in most categories including GM foods, animal welfare, worker's rights, and "political donations".
Tea and coffee are often used as examples of Fairtrade products "making it" into the mainstream, becoming almost symbolic of the Fairtrade movement. While ten out of ten children recognise Ronald MacDonald, only two out of five people recognise the Fairtrade logo. Still, we've come a long way since 2000 when coffee prices slumped to a historic low worldwide. Coffee chains such as Starbucks raked in the profits at the cost of the coffee beans, which plummeted. The evidence was in the stock markets that year.
With chains such as Starbucks' leading the way for corporate gain, the balance between consumers and the developing world could never be tipped; keeping the poor from working their way out of poverty. An estimated 20 million households rely on coffee crops as their income, meaning the knock-on effect on coffee farmers was drastic, many of the farmers had to sell livestock and pull children out of school just to get by.
Now, after incessant campaigning by charities such as Oxfam, Starbucks carries the Fairtrade logo and other chains such as Costa and (even MacDonald's ) proudly display their Rainforest Alliance logo on their recycled, cardboard take away cups.
Of course as Britons, we must mention tea. Over 80 percent of us drink it, and we love it. But how many of us can say we know our Tetley's from our Betty's? According to The Good Shopping Guide, Nescafe, PG Tips and Twinings rate the worst for the environment and animal welfare. Twining's is even "bottom rated" for its stance on genetically modified foods. The companies which come recommended and at the top for everything from public record criticisms, to fair trade and armaments are Yorkshire Tea (84 percent), CafeDirect (88), and Clipper (also 88 percent).
While the evidence goes to show that many of the multi-national corporations are finally taking a stance on their carbon footprint, human rights and ethically sourced products, it raises a very serious question - to save the planet, is it better to buy a pack of fairly traded coffee beans from overseas which enables a farmer to work their way out of poverty but results in more packaging and arrives by aircraft, emitting more CO2 into the atmosphere?
The answer is, there is no simple answer. As a consumer, it is most important to make that decision yourself, and stick with companies who's ethical stance is the same as, or reflects, yours. A stranger said to me today, "I save on plastic bags, and that's my bit done for the planet. After all, the way I see it is, I've barely contributed to global warning!" Then she sauntered off.
If we all thought like this, who's left to make a difference?
'The Good Shopping Guide' is available to buy now.
Saturday, 7 November 2009
Why are officials at Fort Hood hindering their investigations by concerning themselves with race?
Many of you reading this will have heard over the weekend about the tragic shooting at Fort Hood, Texas, where Major Nidal Malik Hassan, an Amry psychiatrist, shot and killed 13 people in what appears to be a random act of violence.
Federal investigators are point blank refusing to release information on the details of the shooting to the public, fuelling reports that the shooting may have been carried out by multiple attackers and raising questions about why it took officials several hours to confirm to the media that Major Hassan had been shot and injured.
Senator Kay Bailey Hutchison, Republican of Texas, said Army officials were trying to determine "if there is something more than just one deranged person involved here... That is a question still to be asked."
Aside from the fact that the person interviewed was a Republican, I feel I need not point out what this article goes on to suggest are the motives behind the shooting.
Evidence retrieved from ballistic tests showed that there was only one gunman but of course it would be easier to write off this act of violence as terrorism because the shooter was not only of Palestinian descent, but a practising Muslim. To quote 'The New York Times';
In Washington, a law enforcement official said an early search of Major Hasan’s computer did not indicate any direct exchanges with known terrorists. The official said investigators did not have a complete record of Major Hasan’s Internet use, as he had multiple e-mail accounts and used computers in several locations.
The fact that Major Hassan is also an American citizen by birth (born and reared in Virginia) and voluntarily joined the American military is overlooked. The fact that his immigrant parents, both deceased, were described by those who knew them as kindly restaurant owners who "always had a warm meal for someone who otherwise would not have anything to eat that evening" is also overlooked. The terrible answers to the reasons behind Major Hassan's shooting spree could be something much more complex than simply an act of jihad, as much of American media has already labelled the shooting as.
Major Hassan was a highly educated American, troubled by many of his patients' stories having counselled "scores" of them upon their return from Iraq or Afghanistan. The truth that is emerging about the reasons behind his awful acts of violence is truly too complicated to label merely as terrorism. His cousin, Nader Hassan has said, "He was mortified by the idea of having to deploy [to Iraq or Afghanistan]," after hearing first hand the realities of war. "He had people telling him on a daily basis the horrors they saw over there." Unverified reports have also suggested that Major Hassan complained of harrassment from fellow soldiers for being Muslim, and that he was trying to get out of deployment to Afghanistan on November 23rd.
Locals who prayed with Major Hassan at his mosque; The Islamic Community of Greater Killeen, have expressed shock and betrayal by Major Hassan's actions. A mosque leader, Doctor Manzoor Farooqi, when asked if he feared retribution for the shootings, said he hoped good relations would prevail. He added, "The Islamic community strongly condemns this cowardly attack, which was particularly heinous in that it was directed at the all-volunteer army that protects our nation."
Notably, the repercussions of this shooting on peaceful Muslim communities in America will be huge. Judging by comments made on liberal newspaper 'The New York Times' website, any hope of moving away from 9/11 comparisons have been shattered. Comments range from accusing Major Hassan directly of being a terrorist in league with other terrorists, to labelling him a "racist" and "extremist". Very few media outlets have commented on the prejudiced conclusions people are already making in America, or the fact that this could be the final straw for many other more conservative Americans who were undecided on their beliefs on Islam.
As Obama said after the awful attack, "We don't know all the answers yet," and should refrain from "jumping to conclusions".
My condolences to all the families everywhere affected by this horrible and brutal act of violence, be they Christian, Muslim, Caucausian, African American, or Asian. Grief, does after all, transcend race.
Federal investigators are point blank refusing to release information on the details of the shooting to the public, fuelling reports that the shooting may have been carried out by multiple attackers and raising questions about why it took officials several hours to confirm to the media that Major Hassan had been shot and injured.
Senator Kay Bailey Hutchison, Republican of Texas, said Army officials were trying to determine "if there is something more than just one deranged person involved here... That is a question still to be asked."
Aside from the fact that the person interviewed was a Republican, I feel I need not point out what this article goes on to suggest are the motives behind the shooting.
Evidence retrieved from ballistic tests showed that there was only one gunman but of course it would be easier to write off this act of violence as terrorism because the shooter was not only of Palestinian descent, but a practising Muslim. To quote 'The New York Times';
In Washington, a law enforcement official said an early search of Major Hasan’s computer did not indicate any direct exchanges with known terrorists. The official said investigators did not have a complete record of Major Hasan’s Internet use, as he had multiple e-mail accounts and used computers in several locations.
The fact that Major Hassan is also an American citizen by birth (born and reared in Virginia) and voluntarily joined the American military is overlooked. The fact that his immigrant parents, both deceased, were described by those who knew them as kindly restaurant owners who "always had a warm meal for someone who otherwise would not have anything to eat that evening" is also overlooked. The terrible answers to the reasons behind Major Hassan's shooting spree could be something much more complex than simply an act of jihad, as much of American media has already labelled the shooting as.
Major Hassan was a highly educated American, troubled by many of his patients' stories having counselled "scores" of them upon their return from Iraq or Afghanistan. The truth that is emerging about the reasons behind his awful acts of violence is truly too complicated to label merely as terrorism. His cousin, Nader Hassan has said, "He was mortified by the idea of having to deploy [to Iraq or Afghanistan]," after hearing first hand the realities of war. "He had people telling him on a daily basis the horrors they saw over there." Unverified reports have also suggested that Major Hassan complained of harrassment from fellow soldiers for being Muslim, and that he was trying to get out of deployment to Afghanistan on November 23rd.
Locals who prayed with Major Hassan at his mosque; The Islamic Community of Greater Killeen, have expressed shock and betrayal by Major Hassan's actions. A mosque leader, Doctor Manzoor Farooqi, when asked if he feared retribution for the shootings, said he hoped good relations would prevail. He added, "The Islamic community strongly condemns this cowardly attack, which was particularly heinous in that it was directed at the all-volunteer army that protects our nation."
Notably, the repercussions of this shooting on peaceful Muslim communities in America will be huge. Judging by comments made on liberal newspaper 'The New York Times' website, any hope of moving away from 9/11 comparisons have been shattered. Comments range from accusing Major Hassan directly of being a terrorist in league with other terrorists, to labelling him a "racist" and "extremist". Very few media outlets have commented on the prejudiced conclusions people are already making in America, or the fact that this could be the final straw for many other more conservative Americans who were undecided on their beliefs on Islam.
As Obama said after the awful attack, "We don't know all the answers yet," and should refrain from "jumping to conclusions".
My condolences to all the families everywhere affected by this horrible and brutal act of violence, be they Christian, Muslim, Caucausian, African American, or Asian. Grief, does after all, transcend race.
Tuesday, 13 October 2009
Disney 'Up' on social comment
As a kid, Disney films were magical. Every frame hand drawn, and the subtlest differences were not picked up on until you watch The Little Mermaid for the two hundredth time (as an adult) and see that Ariel's hair moves differently in each frame as it blows in the wind when she's pining away for Prince Eric.
Pixar of course, has come a long way. I watched Up at the cinema tonight wearing 3D glasses styled like Ray Ban's Wayfarers. The experience was unbelievable, and yes, I did reach out a few times to do the "grabby thing" because it was so surreal. Imagine watching Cinderella in 3D when the carriage turns back into a pumpkin!
Ok, my point is, that Disney has indeed come a long way from Walt's animations, and even the storyline's are stronger. Fairytale princesses falling in love with long lost princes are no longer enough to capture a child's imagination. The classics I grew up with told me that beauty is only skin deep and if you grow beautiful on the inside, you will always find true love... Or that being born with riches means nothing if you are a prisoner of said riches... Or simply, always expect your step mother to be an evil, cackling mistress.
Finding Nemo was about dreaming big and never losing hope and that being little is OK. The Incredibles, one of my all time favourites, teaches us the importance of family values, and again, that being different is actually kinda cool.
Now we have Up, the happy/sad tale about a bitter old man, but we get to see why he's bitter, unlike many other Disney characters who turn out like him. Carl, the 78 year old protagonist in Up is a symbol of tradition in a time where modernity and development find tradition decrepid and outdated. He is to the very core, the American Dream; the Willy Loman of Disney if you will. He is a family man, a doting husband, and at the beginning at least, a failed dreamer. He dreams big, but his dreams never seem to materialise.
*Look away now if you haven't seen the film, and I INSIST you see it!*
Until the Men in Suits threaten to destroy everything he has spent his lifetime building. The Men in Suits who offer Carl "double" the amount they offered "last time" for the little plot of land his house rests on, represent everything that is new, shiny, modern and scary to America. They are the multi-national corporations who brought America's economy to it's knees back in 2008. They are the American Dream gone wrong through greed. When the camera zooms in on Carl sitting on a bench gripping the slip of paper which reads "Court Summons", he looks like a fragile old man who has lost his fight with the world. Yet another comment on how the big guy takes what he can from the little guy, because the next scene is of Carl being dropped off in a police car outside his home. He is handed a leaflet for a nursing home by the police officer, who drives off leaving Carl on his doorstep, alone.
Another poignant moment is when Carl and Ellie's savings jar for their "Adventure" keeps getting broken into for various repairs around the house or for other day to day necessities such as the replacing the car tyre. Disney does not gloss over the fact that these days especially, money is hard to come by. As a member of the audience you so wish for Carl to break the jar for the last time for household repairs, but the jar-breaking is a metaphor for the couple's heartbreak each time the hammer smashes into the glass.
Disney really got the story right again. In all of four minutes, Carl's life story is summarised at the beginning, ensuring your heart goes out to this lonely and closed-off character. He could easily come off as aloof, miserable and plain mean at times, but the four minutes which director Peter Docter allows for the audience to connect with Carl and Ellie are precious and intimate. As always, the story is about following your dreams and never to give up on them because The Spirit of Adventure within us never dies.
So go and see it, but don't expect it to be as carefree and jolly as Disney's other animations, this is a long way from Toy Story or Monsters Inc. Up is in my opinion Disney's first animation aimed mainly at adults. Dug the Dog and Kevin may provide the laughs, not to mention heart-of-gold and cute-as-a-button eight year old Russell, but Carl's life story is really the centerpiece of this film, and just like in real life, Carl goes through hard times.
Oh... one last thing - did I mention that Russell is Disney's first animated and non-typecast Asian character? Thank you Disney!
Pixar of course, has come a long way. I watched Up at the cinema tonight wearing 3D glasses styled like Ray Ban's Wayfarers. The experience was unbelievable, and yes, I did reach out a few times to do the "grabby thing" because it was so surreal. Imagine watching Cinderella in 3D when the carriage turns back into a pumpkin!
Ok, my point is, that Disney has indeed come a long way from Walt's animations, and even the storyline's are stronger. Fairytale princesses falling in love with long lost princes are no longer enough to capture a child's imagination. The classics I grew up with told me that beauty is only skin deep and if you grow beautiful on the inside, you will always find true love... Or that being born with riches means nothing if you are a prisoner of said riches... Or simply, always expect your step mother to be an evil, cackling mistress.
Finding Nemo was about dreaming big and never losing hope and that being little is OK. The Incredibles, one of my all time favourites, teaches us the importance of family values, and again, that being different is actually kinda cool.
Now we have Up, the happy/sad tale about a bitter old man, but we get to see why he's bitter, unlike many other Disney characters who turn out like him. Carl, the 78 year old protagonist in Up is a symbol of tradition in a time where modernity and development find tradition decrepid and outdated. He is to the very core, the American Dream; the Willy Loman of Disney if you will. He is a family man, a doting husband, and at the beginning at least, a failed dreamer. He dreams big, but his dreams never seem to materialise.
*Look away now if you haven't seen the film, and I INSIST you see it!*
Until the Men in Suits threaten to destroy everything he has spent his lifetime building. The Men in Suits who offer Carl "double" the amount they offered "last time" for the little plot of land his house rests on, represent everything that is new, shiny, modern and scary to America. They are the multi-national corporations who brought America's economy to it's knees back in 2008. They are the American Dream gone wrong through greed. When the camera zooms in on Carl sitting on a bench gripping the slip of paper which reads "Court Summons", he looks like a fragile old man who has lost his fight with the world. Yet another comment on how the big guy takes what he can from the little guy, because the next scene is of Carl being dropped off in a police car outside his home. He is handed a leaflet for a nursing home by the police officer, who drives off leaving Carl on his doorstep, alone.
Another poignant moment is when Carl and Ellie's savings jar for their "Adventure" keeps getting broken into for various repairs around the house or for other day to day necessities such as the replacing the car tyre. Disney does not gloss over the fact that these days especially, money is hard to come by. As a member of the audience you so wish for Carl to break the jar for the last time for household repairs, but the jar-breaking is a metaphor for the couple's heartbreak each time the hammer smashes into the glass.
Disney really got the story right again. In all of four minutes, Carl's life story is summarised at the beginning, ensuring your heart goes out to this lonely and closed-off character. He could easily come off as aloof, miserable and plain mean at times, but the four minutes which director Peter Docter allows for the audience to connect with Carl and Ellie are precious and intimate. As always, the story is about following your dreams and never to give up on them because The Spirit of Adventure within us never dies.
So go and see it, but don't expect it to be as carefree and jolly as Disney's other animations, this is a long way from Toy Story or Monsters Inc. Up is in my opinion Disney's first animation aimed mainly at adults. Dug the Dog and Kevin may provide the laughs, not to mention heart-of-gold and cute-as-a-button eight year old Russell, but Carl's life story is really the centerpiece of this film, and just like in real life, Carl goes through hard times.
Oh... one last thing - did I mention that Russell is Disney's first animated and non-typecast Asian character? Thank you Disney!
Thursday, 8 October 2009
Education, Education, Recession?
Many a friend and I have sat and discussed the recession with a roll of the eyes and a "They saw it coming but did nothing" attitude to the whole crisis. We ummm at the latest economist's helpful statement that we are in a "U" shaped economic slump and the upturn is coming, they promise; and ahhh at Brown and Obama's rehearsed promises to join forces with powerful figures and "get us out of this mess".
But a guilty pleasure which we also indulge in every so often is the discussion of how we're all privately pleased that there has been a Great Depression in our lifetimes, and how society has changed as a result of these "bad times".
For a start, instead of mumbling something incoherant about the weather when we see our neighbours shopping in the supermarket, we can now engage in conversations smugly pretending the recession has exclusively affected only our two families.
"Cutting back on the shopping this week Barbara?"
"Yes, well you know how it is, money's tighter these days. Our John's had his hours cut down, just like your Ben."
Or in my case, "Oh you shopping with your mum today Sarah?"
"Yeah, sometimes I can convince her I need a new skirt for work but work haven't paid me yet, and she'll buy me it," laughs "Sarah", and off I go to try my hand at that very same trick. Yes, we certainly know how to clutch at those small pleasures during this recession.
On another note, universities declared this year that they have been inundated with the largest number of applicants to date. Economists and journalists have statistically backed up their argument that this is due to students no longer having the option of going straight into employment after A-Levels because the job market is shrinking rapidly. Parents and students (after all we don't really believe all 17/18 year olds make their own choices do we?) are also hoping that by the time they graduate, the recession will be over. Universities have also seen a sudden influx of mature students and UCAS say particularly an increase in the 21-24 age group by 12.9 percent, and a rise of 12.6 percent from applicants over the age of 24.
On the whole then, the Great British population is getting more educated, and clinging to their "education, education, education". What's the harm in that? Blair would be proud.
Furthermore, gosh, is the credit-card-charging-disposable-fashion-shopper on the decline? The Economist reported this week that it may take impulse shoppers "a quarter [of a financial year] or two" to fully change their shopping habits and cut down on crazy spending, but "surveys reveal a collapse in consumer confidence last winter". Huzzah, as my lovely friend Sarah would say. Less, is definitely, finally, absolutely more. As an avid supporter of quality not quantity when it comes to fashion and buying, I feel like the economic crisis is helping drum into friends (you know who you are) that organic and ethical clothing goes that little bit further if you're going to shop. Most items on the high street don't last because they're poorly made in sweatshop conditions, and oh, almost 100 percent acrylic - not exactly known to keep sheep warm during winter is it? I'll save that argument for another day, but I do feel like I can tone down my fair trade preaching for a while.
What's more, am I seeing more and more multi-national corporations championing, of all things they are known for, "green" ventures? What's that, Shell are using C02 waste to grow flowers? Absurd I hear you say, but you've got to hand it to them for trying.
As Dickens would say, these are hard times we live in, but put all these tiny pleasures into one basket, and you have hope for a better future. The end does not appear nigh, so why not basque in the glory of such simple pleasures while they last? This is the happiest I have seen people in a long time; pessimists have something to complain about and optimists are singing the praises of improved society relations - economic slump? Not a problem.
But a guilty pleasure which we also indulge in every so often is the discussion of how we're all privately pleased that there has been a Great Depression in our lifetimes, and how society has changed as a result of these "bad times".
For a start, instead of mumbling something incoherant about the weather when we see our neighbours shopping in the supermarket, we can now engage in conversations smugly pretending the recession has exclusively affected only our two families.
"Cutting back on the shopping this week Barbara?"
"Yes, well you know how it is, money's tighter these days. Our John's had his hours cut down, just like your Ben."
Or in my case, "Oh you shopping with your mum today Sarah?"
"Yeah, sometimes I can convince her I need a new skirt for work but work haven't paid me yet, and she'll buy me it," laughs "Sarah", and off I go to try my hand at that very same trick. Yes, we certainly know how to clutch at those small pleasures during this recession.
On another note, universities declared this year that they have been inundated with the largest number of applicants to date. Economists and journalists have statistically backed up their argument that this is due to students no longer having the option of going straight into employment after A-Levels because the job market is shrinking rapidly. Parents and students (after all we don't really believe all 17/18 year olds make their own choices do we?) are also hoping that by the time they graduate, the recession will be over. Universities have also seen a sudden influx of mature students and UCAS say particularly an increase in the 21-24 age group by 12.9 percent, and a rise of 12.6 percent from applicants over the age of 24.
On the whole then, the Great British population is getting more educated, and clinging to their "education, education, education". What's the harm in that? Blair would be proud.
Furthermore, gosh, is the credit-card-charging-disposable-fashion-shopper on the decline? The Economist reported this week that it may take impulse shoppers "a quarter [of a financial year] or two" to fully change their shopping habits and cut down on crazy spending, but "surveys reveal a collapse in consumer confidence last winter". Huzzah, as my lovely friend Sarah would say. Less, is definitely, finally, absolutely more. As an avid supporter of quality not quantity when it comes to fashion and buying, I feel like the economic crisis is helping drum into friends (you know who you are) that organic and ethical clothing goes that little bit further if you're going to shop. Most items on the high street don't last because they're poorly made in sweatshop conditions, and oh, almost 100 percent acrylic - not exactly known to keep sheep warm during winter is it? I'll save that argument for another day, but I do feel like I can tone down my fair trade preaching for a while.
What's more, am I seeing more and more multi-national corporations championing, of all things they are known for, "green" ventures? What's that, Shell are using C02 waste to grow flowers? Absurd I hear you say, but you've got to hand it to them for trying.
As Dickens would say, these are hard times we live in, but put all these tiny pleasures into one basket, and you have hope for a better future. The end does not appear nigh, so why not basque in the glory of such simple pleasures while they last? This is the happiest I have seen people in a long time; pessimists have something to complain about and optimists are singing the praises of improved society relations - economic slump? Not a problem.
Sunday, 27 September 2009
UK shine "Spotlight on Africa"
Earlier this month the Ethical Fashion Forum held a seminar and marketplace in London on why Africa is becoming increasingly important in the apparel industry. According to EFF, in Kenya alone 30,000 people are employed in the apparel sector and for each of these jobs, another five are generated. As fashion is labour generated and requires limited capital input to fund, traditional skills such as hand-weaving, hand-embroidering, printing and tailoring offer a high premium.
Trade in fashion products gives important opportunities to small impoverished communities in Africa. The rising demand for sustainable sourcing, coupled with recycling and organic cotton has created a user supply demand for high-quality fashion from Africa which has boosted the trade. In the slums of Korogocho, Nairobi, Kenya, fashion for the developed world has driven the premium for a handful of female artisans. In Korogocho 45 percent of the population are in their youth, many who are forced to stay impoverished because they are illiterate and unemployed as a result. Some adolescents only survive by turning to crime.
The handicraft initiative Bega kwa Bega which means “Shoulder to Shoulder” has helped many women from the slums work their way out of poverty. BKB have trained women from the slums of Korogocho and Mukura, which has been made a dumping ground for rubbish, to make handbags, scarves and jewellery. Many of the women have families to bring up and are also single parents caring for their elders. Through loans they have also been able to expand their initiative to cake making during off peak seasons and purchase more sewing machines to employ more women. Ignatius helps run BKB and he sees how giving women in the community employment has helped the economy of Kenya overall. “We export our crafts to Italy, Japan, Canada, [and] America where there are fair trade buyers. Our goal is to reach [as many] people as possible.”
Similar to Kenya, Zambia’s economy has grown steadily since 2003 from foreign investments. It relies heavily on mining, construction and the service sectors, according to the World Trade Organization’s trade policy review for Zambia this year. Since 2004, Zambia has been able to export directly to the US under the African Growth and Opportunity Act, cutting out all third countries, and ensuring the maximum premium is directed back to Zambia. To encourage the industry, the government have also reduced the import duty on imported raw materials for aid of manufacturing clothing and accessories.
Currently, Zambia’s apparel industry only contributes between 10 and 11 percent of gross domestic product. Zambia’s increasing dependency on copper mining, which accounts for 75 percent of Zambia’s total exports, has eroded any progress on diversity in the Zambian economy. The trade policy review also stressed the importance of reducing dependence on such natural resources, stating textile and clothing as an alternative option.
Fairtrade shops in the UK reflected the rising demand and reported a surprising increase in sales over the last month, while the Fairtrade Foundation announced a 22 percent increase in global Fair trade sales despite the financial crisis, in 2008. Global sales of Fairtrade certified cotton products doubled to 94 percent. The good news for the Fairtrade Foundation comes as fair trade sales grew by over 50 percent in seven countries, which include Sweden, Australia, New Zealand and Canada. The UK and the US are still the strongest consumers of fair trade products as sales increased in the UK by 43 percent and the US experienced an increase of 10 percent.
The increase in sales has opened up doors for a number of new markets in places such as eastern Asia and South Africa. Although cotton is only the fifth most popular Fair trade product behind coffee, bananas, tea and sugar, the increase in sales proves awareness of fair trade fashion has risen.
The Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs in the UK are also getting behind fair trade, as they have introduced a product roadmap called the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan in order to monitor the impact of clothing on the environment. Their aim is to “collaborate with a wide range of stakeholders” such as Arcadia Group which includes high street stores Topshop, Miss Selfridge and Dorothy Perkins, “to develop practical and effective actions to address the environmental and social impacts arising across the clothing life cycle”. SCAP’s plans include encouraging high street retailers to move towards more organic and Fair trade clothing production.
Their finding include using alternative pesticide-free fabrics made from jute, banana and pineapple, but also investing in handloom weaving cooperatives which will help communities in developing countries build a fashion-producing infrastructure.
Despite the trade apparel can generate, five percent of Sub-Saharan Africa’s gross domestic product is still lost every year due to shrinking trade income, a figure which has been known to supersede the total aid and debt flow to the region.
People Tree, the Fairtrade certified fashion label, say statistics show that only one percent of fair trade cotton accounts for all the cotton sold in the UK, but there was a 99 percent increase in Fairtrade cotton sales last year. Considering that all togethSer 30 million tonnes of natural fibres are farmed every year, and only 2.5 percent of the world’s arable farmland is used to grow cotton, fair trade and ethical fashion still has a long way to go. With the Fairtrade Foundations spending 30.4 percent of their total expenditure on public education and awareness however, fair trade may not have to wait for very long in order to become a staple diet of everyday life.
Trade in fashion products gives important opportunities to small impoverished communities in Africa. The rising demand for sustainable sourcing, coupled with recycling and organic cotton has created a user supply demand for high-quality fashion from Africa which has boosted the trade. In the slums of Korogocho, Nairobi, Kenya, fashion for the developed world has driven the premium for a handful of female artisans. In Korogocho 45 percent of the population are in their youth, many who are forced to stay impoverished because they are illiterate and unemployed as a result. Some adolescents only survive by turning to crime.
The handicraft initiative Bega kwa Bega which means “Shoulder to Shoulder” has helped many women from the slums work their way out of poverty. BKB have trained women from the slums of Korogocho and Mukura, which has been made a dumping ground for rubbish, to make handbags, scarves and jewellery. Many of the women have families to bring up and are also single parents caring for their elders. Through loans they have also been able to expand their initiative to cake making during off peak seasons and purchase more sewing machines to employ more women. Ignatius helps run BKB and he sees how giving women in the community employment has helped the economy of Kenya overall. “We export our crafts to Italy, Japan, Canada, [and] America where there are fair trade buyers. Our goal is to reach [as many] people as possible.”
Similar to Kenya, Zambia’s economy has grown steadily since 2003 from foreign investments. It relies heavily on mining, construction and the service sectors, according to the World Trade Organization’s trade policy review for Zambia this year. Since 2004, Zambia has been able to export directly to the US under the African Growth and Opportunity Act, cutting out all third countries, and ensuring the maximum premium is directed back to Zambia. To encourage the industry, the government have also reduced the import duty on imported raw materials for aid of manufacturing clothing and accessories.
Currently, Zambia’s apparel industry only contributes between 10 and 11 percent of gross domestic product. Zambia’s increasing dependency on copper mining, which accounts for 75 percent of Zambia’s total exports, has eroded any progress on diversity in the Zambian economy. The trade policy review also stressed the importance of reducing dependence on such natural resources, stating textile and clothing as an alternative option.
Fairtrade shops in the UK reflected the rising demand and reported a surprising increase in sales over the last month, while the Fairtrade Foundation announced a 22 percent increase in global Fair trade sales despite the financial crisis, in 2008. Global sales of Fairtrade certified cotton products doubled to 94 percent. The good news for the Fairtrade Foundation comes as fair trade sales grew by over 50 percent in seven countries, which include Sweden, Australia, New Zealand and Canada. The UK and the US are still the strongest consumers of fair trade products as sales increased in the UK by 43 percent and the US experienced an increase of 10 percent.
The increase in sales has opened up doors for a number of new markets in places such as eastern Asia and South Africa. Although cotton is only the fifth most popular Fair trade product behind coffee, bananas, tea and sugar, the increase in sales proves awareness of fair trade fashion has risen.
The Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs in the UK are also getting behind fair trade, as they have introduced a product roadmap called the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan in order to monitor the impact of clothing on the environment. Their aim is to “collaborate with a wide range of stakeholders” such as Arcadia Group which includes high street stores Topshop, Miss Selfridge and Dorothy Perkins, “to develop practical and effective actions to address the environmental and social impacts arising across the clothing life cycle”. SCAP’s plans include encouraging high street retailers to move towards more organic and Fair trade clothing production.
Their finding include using alternative pesticide-free fabrics made from jute, banana and pineapple, but also investing in handloom weaving cooperatives which will help communities in developing countries build a fashion-producing infrastructure.
Despite the trade apparel can generate, five percent of Sub-Saharan Africa’s gross domestic product is still lost every year due to shrinking trade income, a figure which has been known to supersede the total aid and debt flow to the region.
People Tree, the Fairtrade certified fashion label, say statistics show that only one percent of fair trade cotton accounts for all the cotton sold in the UK, but there was a 99 percent increase in Fairtrade cotton sales last year. Considering that all togethSer 30 million tonnes of natural fibres are farmed every year, and only 2.5 percent of the world’s arable farmland is used to grow cotton, fair trade and ethical fashion still has a long way to go. With the Fairtrade Foundations spending 30.4 percent of their total expenditure on public education and awareness however, fair trade may not have to wait for very long in order to become a staple diet of everyday life.
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